If the dice are bouncing sideways, away from each other without crossing after the initial bounce, you have a small split between the dice at the bottom. If the dice cross each other first, and then move away, that would indicate a split at the top. The dice will always bounce AWAY from whatever edge hits the table.
This problem is shown below and is easy to correct just by knowing the “Cause/Effect” relationship with the grip.
I have developed the habit of checking to make sure I have not permitted a split to occur in between the dice by initially picking the dice up in the one finger front and maintaining that grip until I have moved everything into the proper throwing position.
After I get everything properly lined up (square to the table and the end wall), I use my index and little finger to very lightly tap against the two outside faces of the dice. This verifies that there is no space between the two die either at top or bottom. I then very lightly lower my index and ring fingers into their proper positions for the 3-finger front and execute the throw.
As your eyes should then be focused upon your target spot on the table, you can easily observe “how they bounce.”
Another cause of yawing dice is not having the dice “square” or parallel to the table bottom when they land. If the dice are cocked very slightly at a right or left angle to the table end, with the right edges fractionally lower than the left (inside) edges when they land, it will be on the lower edge first. The friction caused by the forward momentum of the dice against the felt of the table induces a yaw in the dice (a spinning motion around the vertical axis) in the direction of the low edge.
The picture below shows this problem but slightly exaggerated to make a point (it doesn’t take much of a tilt to create the unwanted outcome):
However, the dice will also react by “running” to the left if landing on the right edge, and to the right if landing on the left edge. They tend to bounce away from the edge that hits the table first.
It is imperative that you ensure that your grip is perfectly “square,” fingers an equal distance down the front edge of the dice (fingertips square), and that the dice are “square” to the end of the table (parallel) and “square” to the felt (parallel to the table’s surface).
The Discussion of Success Factors 1 and 2 in Part 3 of the PARR Training Manual addresses this problem and presents a solution that will prevent it from recurring. Here is how it looks in the Table of Contents:
Part 3: Enhancements to the Perfect Pitch Delivery................ 16
Success Factor 1: “Ready, Aim, Fire!”............................. 16
Aiming With the Super Set......................................... 16
Aiming With the Hard Way and V-sets............................... 18
Perfect Pitch Problem/Solution: Dice Running Right................ 18
Square Dice Training Drill 1...................................... 19
Square Dice Training Drill 2...................................... 19
Setting up the Stick Man So He Does Not Interfere With Your Aim... 19
Success Factor 2: “Fish Mouth” Release............................ 20
Description....................................................... 20
Problem/Solution #1: Too Much Splatter Upon Touchdown............. 22
Problem/Solution #2: Staggered Release............................ 23
The Optimal Arm Swing............................................. 23
Sharpshooter’s Recommendations on the Controlled Throw.............24
What to Do if Your Throw is Off....................................25
Here are some reasons why you should be acquiring the Sharpshooter/PARR Dice Control Course.
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If you are experiencing any one of these problems, it could be costing you money at the craps tables.
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I wish you the best of success at the tables,
Jerry Patterson (AKA Long Arm)
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